Olive wood stoves need maintenance, have more than gas or propane furnaces. My experience says that you go up to 3 years without maintenance, but it is not advisable, because sometimes the error that results is difficult (electrode-insulation cracks, and displays the electrode mounted on the Bessemer process, ie, melts). I'm really cleans better every year.
Maintenance and cleaning them is a big problem, but it is messy, because the soottarry and foul-smelling.
Turn off the system. Remove the oil burner assembly, the electrodes on them. How do you remove this assembly is very dependent on the particular drive, follow the pipeline from the oil pump where it enters the housing of the oven and it will give you a good clue. Often (usually) or you must remove the hinge or regain the high voltage transformer for the meeting.
If the burner, remove the nozzle and replace it. Doreplace it with a spray nozzle with the same if the gallons per hour (GPH) rating can range stove top or bottom of the speed capabilities.
Spray patterns are either solid, semisolid or cable described - which regards the distribution of oil in the spray cone, and have a certain angle, the angle of the cone of oil that is cooked in the oven defined. The most common pattern is solid in my experience, and 85 degrees is the most common that Iseen.
Clean the whole assembly down to the oil and soot from getting it. They are the location and distance of the electrodes must, but first a visual inspection of them. If there are visible cracks in the insulators to replace. If the ends are eroded and pitted, replace them. If in doubt, replace it.
There is a special tool is necessary to prove the location and distance of the electrodes, not you, to do this without this tool. The cost is only about $ 4 to a supply house, I repeat DO NOT try to give themTOOL! You can create a fire, and at worst, an explosion that destroyed the stove when you divide them bad enough. Make sure you meet, and the location of the distance between the electrodes to the nozzle respective owners.
If all of this done, a mop and clean the airways leading to the oven. Clean the cage for the combustion blower. Clean the oil pump, the transformer and the electrodes on the transformer. Also look for an opticianFlame sensor (some units have) and clean it.
Assemble the oven and the fire goes out. The flame should start immediately and quiet - no hum, no delay followed by a Whoomp. If set properly, will only begin immediately and quietly.
Then you have the air, adjust the flame. Open the inspection door, so you can see the flame. Turn on the air until the flame is dull yellow and smoky, then increase the air until the smoke disappears and the flame"Flower" is bright yellow. If the "flower" Flame is too lean, it is very bright and bluish. At this point, you're sending too much air and sending too much heat from the fumes. If the inspection door is closed when the stove flame and the kind of 'chill' a bit ', again from heaven, to the stop, then look in the port of inspection to ensure that the flame does not smoke.
Once this is done, so that the oven has reached operating temperature, then adjustThe smoke damper. The flue damper should swing freely and not caught, it will either open or closed. If you are not going to achieve it, replace it. If you've reached, adjust the valve, causing about half the opening when the oven is running and swinging temp. When the oven stops and the smoke is cooled, the damper closed to hover by itself.
In addition, the pump motor oil, fan motor, you change the filter, pull the strap, replace the oil filter, and you're done. It could alsoPump pressure test, but that does nothing, unless it is handled or if the pump fails, it almost always ignore.
That sounds like a lot when you get good at it you will end up in 1 / 2 hour late. You will also have the smell of fuel oil when you're done, so wear old clothes.
Oh yes. It must not be forgotten. She will deliver a certain quantity of oil in the course of this, some cat litter (dry) are available.
